With a retro feel, an onboard chef, and a slow scenic route, the ‘Corona’ is Europe’s quirkiest night train. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
With a retro feel, an onboard chef, and a slow scenic route, the ‘Corona’ is Europe’s quirkiest night train. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
No, it hasn’t been named after a deadly virus or a Mexican beer: the Corona night train links Budapest to rural Transylvania and features Soviet-era carriages, writes Daniel Puddicombe
Stepping aboard MÁV – Hungarian State Railways’ rather unfortunately named ‘Corona’ sleeper train, which runs between the capital of Hungary, Budapest, and Brasov in Romania and vice-versa – is like going back in time: the carriages are relics from the Soviet era and the staff are dressed in a very formal uniform.
As I enter the train, I’m struck by the large velvet curtains and wooden panelling in the corridor as well as how roomy my berth is. I’m travelling in the summer and air conditioning isn’t fitted to the carriages but I needn’t worry: the opening windows very much come into their own. Before I even get to see the window though, I spot a lovely bottle of Hungarian sparkling wine waiting for me on the side.
Interestingly, the primary purpose isn’t to connect Budapest with Brasov – in the heart of Transylvania – instead, the train is designed to transport people from the Szekely Land in Romania, an area inhabited mainly by Székelys, a subgroup of Hungarians.
The ‘Corona’ train’s name comes from the Latin word for Brasov, not the beer or the virus. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
Before I go on any further, let’s address the elephant in the room: no, it isn’t named after a Mexican beer or a virus that caused the world to shut its borders for several years, rather ‘Corona’ is the Latin name for the city of Brasov.
The train is heavily subsidised by the Hungarian government, and while tourists clearly aren’t the target market, it makes for a cheap and fun experience if you want to go off the beaten track. Fares start from NZ$189 for a single berth and includes a cooked breakfast in the morning, too.
The ‘Corona’ night train offers a vintage rail experience from Budapest to Transylvania, complete with a full dining car. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
Ah, yes. The dining carriage. Part of the Hungarian presidential train, it’s rather spectacular and unlike many sleeper trains in Europe that use microwaves to cook meals, it features an onboard chef and even beer on draught. The menu offers plenty of options, too – the usual burgers and so on, plus traditional Hungarian dishes, including beef goulash.
The train’s restaurant carriage was once part of the Hungarian presidential train.
Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
I travelled between Brasov and Budapest in the summer of 2023 and while the bed was extremely comfortable, the one downside of the trip was being woken twice in the middle of the night by border officials almost bashing down the wooden doors and shouting “PASSPORTS”, owing to Romania (at the time) not being part of the Schengen Area and thus requiring a stamp out of the country.
The ‘Corona’ is the cheapest of four sleeper train options between Hungary and Romania. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
Thankfully, however, times change and progress is made: as of the start of the year, Romania is now part of the Schengen Area so you should be able to sleep peacefully throughout the night, though it is worth noting the trackwork in Romania isn’t up the standards you’d expect in other more developed countries – hence the lower speeds.
That’s not a problem though: if you travel between Hungary and Romania (the preferred direction, in my opinion) it means that when you wake up in the rolling hills of Transylvania, a beautiful part of the world that is rarely explored by tourists, for hours on end, while devouring a fully-cooked breakfast to boot.
Travelling towards Romania offers the best experience, with breathtaking sunrise views over Transylvania. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
It’s worth noting if you are planning on travelling between Hungary and Romania (or vice versa) there are not one, not two but four different sleeper train options, so you can do as I did and mix and match: I caught the Vienna – Bucharest ‘Dacia Express’ to the Romanian capital and the ‘Corona’ back to Budapest. However, the ‘Corona’ is the only train that offers a restaurant carriage – a sign of an excellent train in my mind – and is the cheapest of the four options, making it the clear winner in my book.
Sure, the ride might be a bit bumpier than modern trains and a tad noisier than other European night trains, but it makes up for this in spades with its Soviet-era charm.
Food served onboard. Photo / Daniel Puddicombe
Details
Tickets can be booked via the Hungarian State Railways’ website at jegy.mav.hu. If you are travelling using a Eurrail pass, discounts can be applied.
Several night trains run between Budapest and Brasov: ensure you select Train 407 (for Budapest – Brasov) or Train 406 (for Brasov – Budapest).
